TRAVELLING THE WORLD IN HIGH HEELS
A red carpet and golden cord lead the way to the small, exclusive boutique in the Kö-Center, where lavishly decorated, handmade women's shoes are displayed on glass shelves like precious objects. Below these are pumps with breathtakingly high heels, crafted from the finest leather, velvet and silk; ankle boots featuring three-dimensional embroidery; and black-and-white sneakers from the ‘Panda’ collection. There are also true works of art, adorned with feathers, pearls, rhinestones and embroidery. Prices per pair range from 450 to 5,000 Euro. Dressed entirely in black with a gold-embroidered shawl, Linda Liu advises a handful of Chinese customers. The petite businesswoman moves around on platform soles and very high heels that make her appear at least 15 centimetres taller. Our interview is conducted in German and Chinese with the help of an interpreter.
A model from the current collection series “The Tale of Natural Fibre”.
Linda, why did you choose Düsseldorf of all places to open your European headquarters and your only shoe boutique outside China?
Ever since I first visited the shoe fair in Düsseldorf in 1998 and stayed with a German family, I have been impressed by the warmth and openness of the people of Düsseldorf. My host, Danni, baked me pastries every day and made me feel immediately welcome. From that moment on, I knew I wanted to come to Düsseldorf and work here.
What makes Düsseldorf so special? What fascinates you most?
Many things. To name just a few: the Rheinpark is beautiful, Königsallee is a real luxury paradise, and there are great museums and really good food from all over the world. I love how open-minded the locals are towards strangers and how different cultures live together in harmony. I also love the elegant architecture and the creative flair that comes from the numerous exhibitions and events.
What does a typical day look like for you?
I get up at 5 am, read for an hour (about 30 pages), then go for a walk in the Grafenberger Wald and let myself be inspired by nature. Observing plants and animals is one of my passions. After breakfast, I go to work at 8am and usually finish around 6pm.
Could you briefly outline your area of responsibility?
As Creative Director of the sheme brand, I develop new products and work on international expansion. When I'm in Düsseldorf, I handle public relations to raise awareness of our brand.
What does a brand need to be successful internationally?
Essential building blocks include top-quality products with a unique design and clear positioning, a strong brand with an authentic story and high recognition value, and local teams who speak the language and know the culture in order to use online sales channels and build communities. Above all, you need a lot of patience and a long-term view!
100 per cent handmade.
Your main market is China, where you sell 70 per cent of your shoes online and in six boutiques across five cities, from Beijing to Xi'an. Apart from digital sales, your shop on the Kö is your only European location so far. How many employees do you have in total?
We have 360 employees in China. In Düsseldorf, we have three permanent members of staff, two part-time members of staff and two interns.
Where are shoes with names like "Butterfly Wonderland" and "Divine Bird" designed and manufactured?
I collaborate with the design centre in Chengdu, partners in Düsseldorf, and a creative studio in Italy. Production takes place exclusively in China.
Do you have a favourite material?
I love fine Italian silk, high-quality lamb and calf leather, and premium sole materials. We also use raw materials from my home country, of course.
What about the shoes — do you have any favourites?
Oh yes! Handmade high-heeled shoes with platforms. I have more than 50 pairs. They make me feel confident, beautiful and elegant.
You recently revealed at the public fashion show during the DFD Fashion Festival on Corneliusplatz that you once made your first platform pumps with ridiculously high heels out of love for a much taller man. Extremely high shoes became your trademark. Doesn't that seem a bit unhealthy?
Many of our shoe models have heels over ten centimetres high. However, a special cushion is integrated into the sole. This distributes body weight as optimally as possible. I often wear 15-centimetre heels myself – and I don't suffer for it. My record is nine hours.
Traditional Shu embroidery combined with elaborate bead details.
Are all the shoes, including the trainers, handmade?
Yes. Every pair is 100 per cent handcrafted. The elaborately embroidered Sichuan-style models, in particular, require a great deal of skill and time to make. We also make custom designs to order.
What has been your most successful design idea to date?
Our core competence and innovation lies in combining traditional Chinese patterns, which are rich in symbolism, with international trends.
What role do social media and content creators play in promoting your brand?
A very central one. They are key to reaching new target groups and raising the brand's international profile. We are also planning various collaborations, such as one with students from the AMD (Academy of Fashion Design) in Düsseldorf.
Did you ever want to be anything other than a shoe designer?
No – I am in love with my work. I have devoted myself wholeheartedly to my profession and the ‘art of walking’ for four decades. I intend to continue doing so for the next 25 years. My project, "Designs inspired by 56 Chinese ethnic groups", will run until 2049. By then, the sheme brand will also be celebrating its 50th anniversary. Our goal for this anniversary is to go on a world tour with our shoes. After that, I will happily retire. •
ABOUT LINDA LIU
Liu Qiongying (known as Linda Liu in Germany) was born and raised in Chengdu, a city of 21 million people in Sichuan Province, southwestern China. She started her career in the leather and shoe industry and presented her unusual shoe designs for the first time in 1998 at the GDS (Große Deutsche Schuhmusterschau), the largest trade fair of its kind in the world at the time, as an exhibitor in Düsseldorf. She is now the founder and managing director of the sheme brand and one of China's best-known shoe designers and entrepreneurs.
Words: Dagmar Haas-Pilwat
Pictures: Shi Xin, Aiminer Leather Products Europe GmbH / sheme